Sukiyaki with Matsutake

SERVES FOUR

• 2 cups beef stock
• 1/2 cup sake
• 1/4 cup soy sauce
• 1 bunch green onions, trimmed
• 1 piece beef suet, about 2 inches long, or 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1/2 small yellow onion, cut into 1/2-inch wedges
• 8 ounces green cabbage, cored and shredded
• 8 ounces matsutake mushrooms, brushed clean, trimmed and sliced
• 8 ounces shirataki (taro noodles), cut into 5-inch pieces
• 1 package (about 11 ounces) firm tofu, cubed
• 1 1/2 pounds very thinly sliced marbled beef, preferably wagyu-style
• 2-3 tablespoons sugar, optional

Combine the stock, sake and soy sauce in a large saucepan and warm over medium heat. Thinly slice enough of the green onion tops to make 1/4 cup; set aside for garnish. Cut the remaining green onions in half crosswise.
Heat a wok or a large heavy skillet, such as cast iron, over medium-high heat. When hot, rub the beef suet over the surface of the pan to evenly coat it with fat, then remove, or simply add the butter and let it melt. Add the green onion pieces, yellow onion, cabbage, and matsutakes and stir-fry until they begin to soften, 3-5 minutes. Transfer the vegetables to the broth mixture, add the noodles and tofu cubes, and keep warm over low heat.
Add 3-4 of the beef slices to the wok and cook quickly, just until nicely browned, 30-60 seconds on each side, drizzling about 2 tablespoons of the warm broth and 1 teaspoon of the sugar over when you turn the meat. Press these pieces to one side of the wok and continue with the remaining meat, which will gently simmer in the collecting liquids. When all of the meat has been cooked, take the wok from the heat.
To serve, ladle the hot broth, mushrooms, tofu and vegetables into individual bowls, top with beef slices and drizzle some of the cooking liquids over. Sprinkle with a final garnish of green onion and serve right away.